The Music of Tuscany

Photo: Danielle, Rosemary and Ceridwyn off to a night
at the Opera in their new leather jackets

Duomo in Florence: It was just the rosary – the priest led it and the congregation responded.

But it was like music. Something about the lilt of the language and the rhythm of the poetry of the prayer, and the steady passion of those who recited it – we were transported. Afterwards the lovely priest came by and obviously spotting us as English speaking tourists welcomed us and asked us where we were from. He asked us if we were sisters – we said we were friends, and only afterwards realised he was probably asking if we were religious sisters! We stayed for the Mass and lit some candles for friends – our first music in Tuscany..

Concerto Classico: We discovered Franz Moser and his passion for classical music. He organises opera and concerto concerts in St Marks English Church on Via Maggio. www.concertoclassico.info

Franz is a lawyer, but this is obviously his passion – he sold the tickets at the door, made the mulled wine for intermission, and sold the CDs. The concert was only E15 and all the money goes to a project in South India. You can also enjoy a typical Tuscan 3 course light dinner before the concert or opera with a combined ticket of 37e for the opera and 27e for the concert – we were sorry we did not know about that.

St Marco is a beautiful 19^th Century church, at the centre tonight was a grand piano, open and ready to go. Franz was the pianist, Eva Mabellini was the Soprano. They played and sang their way through 14 pieces – piano and opera interspersed – we were transfixed. The quality, the beauty, the sound, the space…

Next day we met the gorgeous Franz in the street delivering flyers for the concert series and he welcomed us like long lost friends. If you are in Florence and there is a concert on, you must not miss this!

When Ngaire and I were in Florence in 1996 we were mesmerised by a performance of Gregorian chant in a Museums at Night programme, so this trip we were keen to see if there was anything similar happening – we were not disappointed.

Mid day prayer in four part harmony: at La Badia Fiorentina in the heart of Florence, the Fraternita Monastica di Gerusalemme sing mid day prayer. They are a contemporary urban based community who gather to pray, and others are invited to join them.

It is magical – be there early to sit and be in the midst of this Benecitine Church founded in 978 – which is home to Filippino Lippo’s colourful painting Madonna appearing to St Bernard, among other works of art. The six sided tower, a Florence landmark, was torn down in 1307 when to punish the monks for not paying citizen’s taxes. It was rebuilt 23 years later. This church is also the place Dante first saw his beloved Beatrice as she attended Mass.

Vespers on the Mount: each afternoon some time between 4.30 and 5.30 (ask – when we went in November it was 5pm) the Olivetan Monks sing Vespers in Gregorian Chant in the 11^th Century Crypt. Visitors are welcome and Mass follows.

We climbed the hill – Monte Alle Croci to San Miniato al Monte. It is a challenging hill so you might like a taxi or bus, as the route takes you out of the city to a more rural landscape. At San Miniato you get a magnificent view over Florence, which makes the climb worth it, even before enjoying vespers.

Another amazing church just to sit and wander around, full of works of art and a sense of prayer and presence. The sung Vespers was beautiful – just five monks there, and about the same in the congregation. No charge, but donations welcome.

Lucca – the birthplace of Puccini: Lucca is a beautiful compact fully walled city near Florence, and they have decided to make a feature of their famous son. Puccini e la sua Lucca www.puccinielasualucca.com

There are concerts every night of the week (except Thursday) from November to April at 7pm in the Church of San Giovanni (near the Cathedral). Tickets are 15 E available at the door or from the web – info@musick.it

I decided I could not miss A Night at the Opera - arias and duets from the great Italian operatic repertoire from Puccini to Verdi. The setting is an old Church – if it is not the high season, it will be cold, so rug up! The Soprano was Floriana Ferraro, the Baritone Mattia Campetti and the piano Massimo Morelli.

Once again I was spellbound.

It is not that many years ago that I said that the only music I did not like was Opera, I am not sure what has changed for me. I suspect I have been seduced by the softer end such as the 3 tenors, Opera in the Park and such CDs as the “Best Classical Music”.

Whatever started it, I find I am now more drawn to Opera, although the depth of my appreciation is not great. There is something about the longing, and beauty of the music and singers that I find transports me and moves me.

Photos of Florence